maandag 22 maart 2010

"We survived the world's most dangerous road" (Bolivia)

Both the internet and our beloved Lonely Planet were very positive on one activity in the La Paz area: a 64 km downhill ride on the world's most dangerous road. Mountainbiking is one of my favorite sports (Thomas), so I really wanted to do this. It took me some time to convince Joke, but I managed to push through... :-) So we went to the best and most recommended company (Gravity) and we booked the trip. There was no way back...

The North Yungas Road leading from La Paz to Coroico or the ´death road´ as the locals name it, didn't steal its name. On average, between 200 and 300 people die on that road... every year! However, in the ten years that bike rides are organised, only 15 people died. So the bike is probably the safest vehicle to ride this road that goes from the Bolivian Andes (4700m) all the way down to the Amazon basin (1000m).

Both guides that day were Americans and one of them had a guy dying in his arms 10 months ago. Not exactly the kind of stories you want to hear before the ride.
After a 1,5 truck ride to the top, we were given our 3000$ bikes. They were fantastic, way better than my own bike and in perfect shape. While we were having our first briefing, it started to snow. It was awfully cold, so we put on all our clothes we brought. Then, a bit nervous and scared, we started the ride.

It took us 5 hours in total to get down, with lots of stops on the way for additional explanations on the upcoming sections and to take off some clothes. There´s around 30ÂșC difference between the start and the end, so that was really necessary.
The ride itself was absolutely amazing. On average the road is 3m wide, with perpendicular clifs of over 800 meters and, of course, no safety rails. Pretty scary, especially if a vehicle crosses you. Unlike one would expect, bikers have to take the left side of the road, that is the side of the clif. So you're riding all the time within 1m from 'death'. It's impossible to describe the magnificent views, the countless crosses for the people who lost their life on this roadm the beautiful waterfalls that fall over the road and the wilderness of the jungle that is coming closer every minute (including the humidity, the heath and the mosquitos).

The ride is not that difficult, but consequences of an accident are for 99% fatal. The fact that you descent 3700m in 64km means that you gain a lot of speed at some sections. I (Thomas) was riding right after the guide and of course, I didn't want him to ride away. However, unlike him, I don't know every inch of that road, so at one point I slipped, lost control, went over my steering bar and ended up in a narrow stream next to the road. Luckily for me, it was the good side of the road. On the other side, there was a clif of over 300m. After some basic medical care, I was able to continue, covered with scratches and with a small hole in my leg that will be a nice scar for life.
And what about Joke? She surprised me with her courage and her capacity to follow at high speed, even on the few killing uphill parts. Although she was the one that had doubts in the beginning, she flew over all the other chicken girls and had the time of her life. Once again, she made me very proud... (and no, she didn't force me to write this!)

It was the undisputed highlight of our trip so far and I would recommend it to everybody who goes to Bolivia, except for the fall of course. Though, now that I think of it... getting a scar on the world's most dangerous road... how cool is that!!!

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